Given the harshness of the world, a softer color palette seemed right to me this season. Shades of nude and skin tones look especially beautiful to me right now. Flesh colors are sensual and have a warmth and humanity that I think that we all crave at the moment. Warm white, powder blue and the palest of lilacs and blush pink are important colors in the collection. And of course black is always a color that I love working with. Black frames the face of the wearer and emphasizes a silhouette like no other color can. There is a kind of security in black. Fabrics alternate between the softness and romance of lace, chiffon, georgette and even the lightest stretch leather, and the structure of harder leathers and fabrics, and the sheen of fake crocodile. Chiffon, leather and lace play off of each other in this contrast of hard and soft.
In terms of mood there is a certain languid sensuality and romance to this collection. Skirts are just past the knee, softer and often asymmetrical. They are controlled and yet have a ease about them at the same time. Soft dresses are almost always anchored by a corset often in leather to emphasize the waist. Jackets are structured and allow the dresses and skirts to have a softness while not making the wearer feel vulnerable. This play of hard and soft spills over into the accessories as well. The newest bags are unlined and unstructured allowing the beauty of the leather to give them their appeal. The shoes on the other hand have a sharper quality. While light and beautiful on the foot they also have a certain edge in the metal toe cap and heel and they ground the wearer allowing for the softness and fragility of the silhouette above.
There is a direct relationship in both color and mood this season in the menswear and the womenswear as men’s inspired pieces are important in the women’s collection and the softness in color and cut are often important in the men’s collection. Both collections are unified in color, mood and a certain romance.
The eyewear also picks up on this romantic feeling as oversized transparent frames in the palest of colors gently wrap around the face. Warm gradient lenses give the eyes a kind of drama and mystery. Because of the pared down look of the collection jewelry is kept to a minimum and the newest accessory is an extremely wide crocodile watchband that that is reminiscent of an archery bow guard.
Makeup this season is perhaps the most sensual that I have done in several years. Eyes are rimmed in soft warm metallics that emphasize the color of both the wearer’s skin and eyecolor. Lips are nude but moist and inviting. And the skin has a slight sheen and is sun kissed. The overall effect is fresh and sensual at the same time.
Evening for both men and women is quietly dramatic. The hand workmanship on the dresses is extensive and once again the play of hard and soft is evident with the gentle drape and fragility of hand placed silk threads anchored by printed crocodile bodices or structured animal print pony corsets or halters worn with matching biker jackets. There is a drama to the sensual silk jersey caped evening dresses and the metallic men’s tuxedo jackets and yet they are worn with ease.